Peptides are fast becoming one of the most frequently used actives in skin care ranges targeting the ageing baby boomers. Peptides can stimulate normal skin biological processes that slow down as the skin ages.
So what are these miracle ingredients?
Peptides are proteins that are naturally found in the skin. They supply precursors necessary for the building of larger more complex proteins, prostaglandins and hormones. Peptides stimulate physiological processes to occur inside the structures of the skin cell itself. The penetrate deep into the layers of skin and allow the cell to function in a more normal way.
There are a number of Peptides currently on the market. The most common being Matrixyl. Otherwise known as Palmitoyl Oligopeptide or Palmitoyl Pentapeptide. This ingredient is found in Boots No 7 Perfect and Protect and in Olay Regenerist. It is also found in Eclogite Skin Care, Environ and Mismo.
Matrixyl is a synthetic protein, made up of a fragment of collagen and palmitic acid. The palmitic acid is used to make collagen fragment more lipophilic and make it more compatible with the human skin to allow penetration. The benefit of Matrixyl over Retinol is that it is as effective as retinol but without the irritation commonly associated with retinoids. Matrixyl was shown to increase the thickness of the skin. An important factor as skin thickness decreases with ageing. The in vitro trial of Matrixyl was shown to stimulate collagen production by the fibroblasts by 350%. A remarkable result. It also was found to stimulate hyaluronic acid by 146% as well. Hyaluronic acid is responsible for moisture in the skin amongst many other things.
Sadly consumers seem to know more about these ingredients than Beauty Therapists. The most common peptide most consumers would be aware of is Agireline which was brought to the attention of consumers with Victoria Principles skin care range. Yet when visiting salons and showing the Eclogite range most therapists have no idea what peptides are or what there benefit is for the skin. In fact I would go as far as to say that if you are not stocking a range that includes peptides you are behind the times.
